An insider’s guide to Split, Croatia

One of the most livable and lovable cities on the Mediterranean, the second-largest city of Croatia Split is the perfect vacation for a mix of city, culture, and beach. The lively and atmospheric old town, pine-fringed beaches with turquoise water, a forested hill crisscrossed with walking trails, plus easy access to some of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. While Dubrovnik remains popular, it’s no wonder that a vacation in Split is one of the hottest places in Europe right now.

Top things to do in Split, Croatia: from highlights to hidden gems

Uncover the Old Town: from Diocletian’s Palace to tucked-away secrets

Nowhere else does a Roman emperor’s retirement palace form the beating heart of a modern city, complete with apartments, and a lively café scene. Diocletian’s Palace covers a staggering seven acres of old-town Split and the waterfront, and is home to thousands of residents, dozens of restaurants, and some of the best bars in Croatia. In summer, the ancient central courtyard hosts free outdoor concerts, theater, and art exhibitions, all in the shadow of Saint Domnius, one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world.

The best introduction to Split old town is to walk its narrow marble streets, past colonnaded courtyards and underground vaults and apartments with laundry strung between ancient archways. Outside the walls, duck into Vestibule, the domed entrance hall with its extraordinary acoustic qualities, discover the Golden Gate, the city’s best-preserved Roman gateway, and follow the narrower lanes east of the palace toward quieter squares where locals still outnumber tourists.

Take a scenic stroll down the Riva promenade or the eastern coastal stretches

The Riva is Split’s broad, café-lined seafront promenade, and where the city takes its evening pulse as the sun goes down. Outdoor café tables fill up, the gelato queues lengthen, and the promenade swells with locals dressed for the passeggiata, ice cream in hand. It’s a ritual as old as the city itself and one of the best things to do in Split.

For a quieter version of the same pleasure, head east along the coastal path toward Bačvice and beyond: a longer stretch of shoreline with views of the offshore islands and far fewer crowds, ideal for an early morning walk or a late evening stroll.

Read more: The best places to visit in Croatia

Lose yourself in Veli Varoš: Split’s oldest neighborhood

Uphill from the palace is the city’s oldest residential neighborhood, Veli Varoš. Home to a tiny 11th century church, this tangle of steep lanes, stone staircases and terracotta rooftops feels like a place that time has chosen to leave largely alone. As do most tourists. Instead, expect to see elderly residents sitting outside playing cards, cats dozing on sun-warmed walls, and trees ripe with figs and pomegranates.

Enjoy epic panoramas: from Marjan Hill to tranquil paths in Sustipan Park

Escape the city and the summer heat and discover spectacular views over Split with a walk up Marjan Hill. The walk takes you up a series of steps through fragrant Mediterranean forest, past an Old Jewish Cemetery to the panoramic viewpoints at the top. You can see the offshore islands and, on clear days, the mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina across the water. For something quieter, Sustipan Park, a small, shaded headland on the southern tip of Marjan, is a local favorite for sunset-watching.

Get your fill of history: from Klis Fortress to the Roman Salona Ruins

If the old town doesn’t quite deliver your history fix, make for the dramatic mountain fortress of Klis, one of the region’s most important fortifications in its history. Occupied successively by Romans, medieval Croatian kings, Ottomans, and Venetians, Game of Thrones fans will recognize it as Meereen, the slave city ruled by Daenerys Targaryen.

For hardcore history buffs, the Roman ruins at Salona are just 30 minutes from Split by bus. It was once one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire, and today some of its former scale and grandeur can still be glimpsed among the ruins.

Swim at the best beaches: from popular Bačvice to quiet Kašjuni

Split’s most popular beach is Bačvice beach, a short walk from the old town and the social heart of the city in summer. This shallow sandy bay is lively, fun, and unmissably local. Many beaches in Croatia are pebble, but what they lack in sand they make up for in beautiful turquoise water.

Znjan is home to the city’s largest pebbly beach, with plenty of water activities for the daytime and laid-back beach bars and restaurants for the evening. For something quieter, Kašjuni on the south side of Marjan Hill is a shingle cove framed by forest and cliffs, with clear water and a more relaxed atmosphere.

Read more: Exploring Croatia: a Mediterranean gem

Split’s local food and drink scene

What to eat: peka, pašticada, fresh seafood, and more

Croatian cuisine takes its influences from its Central European neighbors such as Austria and Hungary, its Italian cousins, plus the miles of coastline which make fresh seafood a staple. And eating well in Split is easy. Signature dishes include peka, meat or seafood slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid buried in embers, and pašticada, beef braised slowly in a rich, wine-based sauce and traditionally served with gnocchi.

But Split is nothing if not a global city, and you’ll find fabulous pizza, sushi, tacos, and some of the best seafood you’ll ever eat. Don’t leave without having tried palačinke, Croatian crepes filled with chocolate or jam, from one of the street stalls in the old town.

Where to eat: markets, konobas, and restaurants worth knowing

If you happen to be self-catering, then the daily Pazar market is your local food store. It’s a riot of seasonal produce, home-made cheeses, local honey, and freshly-caught fish, and an ideal place to pick up supplies or simply absorb the morning energy of the city. Hunt for Istrian truffles, try cheese from Pag, and buy Dalmatian prosciutto, all of which you’ll also find on some of Split’s finest Italian-style pizzas!

Split is awash with cafés serving everything from coffee to lunch and full evening meals, and while those on the Riva promenade are inviting, it’s worth taking a step back. In fact, one of them, Basta, is just a few steps away from the Riva and overlooks the harbor waterfront, while others are tucked away in the old town, like the funky Corto Maltese. For lunch with a view, head for Teraca Vidilica halfway up Marjan Hill or Teraca Bamba in Varos. You’ll find great coffee at Meštar o’ Kave and D16, and wonderful vegetarian brunch at Fig in Diocletian’s Palace.

Follow your sunset aperitif with dinner at one of the many konobas, traditional family-run restaurants that have been feeding locals for generations. Top picks include Konoba Fetivi, Fife Konoba and Konoba Lucacor, while Villa Spiza gets a special mention as one of the city’s most authentic Croatian restaurants. And for the best gelato in Split, head for Gelateria Emiliana.

What to drink: Croatian wine, craft beer, and rakija

Croatia has a proud and increasingly celebrated winemaking tradition, and Split is the perfect place to explore it. Look for wines from the Dalmatian hinterland, such as Plavac Mali, a bold and full-bodied red, and Pošip, a crisp, aromatic white from the island of Korčula. MoNIKa’s Wine Bar has a great selection.

Split also has a strong craft beer scene, with several local producers making interesting pale ales and lagers. And no evening in Split is truly complete without a small glass of rakija, the local fruit brandy, often offered as a welcome drink or a digestif.

Read more: Small yet mighty Croatia: travel tips from a local expert

The best time to visit Split

Croatia’s peak season (July–August) brings intense heat, large crowds, and a lively festival atmosphere that can be exhilarating or overwhelming depending on your tolerance. Accommodation prices peak, restaurants fill fast, and Diocletian’s Palace can feel genuinely packed. But the energy is infectious and evenings on the Riva are magical.

The shoulder seasons (May to June and September to October) strike a perfect balance with pleasant temperatures (typically 68-80 degrees Fahrenheit/20-27 Celsius) and manageable crowds. Late September in particular has a golden, unhurried quality as the summer crowds thin and locals reclaim the city.

The off season (November to April) is quieter but arguably more intimate, and the old town feels genuinely local. The weather can be unpredictable, although still milder than much of northern Europe, and the city’s café culture keeps things lively all year round.

Day trips from Split

Split’s international airport and its position on the central Dalmatian Coast makes it one of the best bases for exploring the region.

Five top things to do near Split include:

• Krka National Park: A 90-minute drive north, here you’ll find a series of spectacular waterfalls cascading through forested gorges into turquoise swimming pools.
• Plitvice Lakes National Park: This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Croatia’s most extraordinary natural wonders, and well worth the two-hour journey from Split. Arrive early to beat the crowds and walk the wooden boardwalks as morning mist rises from the water.
• Trogir: Its UNESCO-listed old town sits on a tiny island linked by bridges to the mainland. There, a medieval cathedral and Renaissance loggia make it one of the most beautifully preserved towns in the Adriatic, and you’ll get to see it all just 30 minutes from Split.
• Mostar: around two hours by road, the Bosnian city of Mostar makes a fascinating contrast to Split’s Mediterranean world.
• Island discoveries: Daily ferries connect Split to Brač’s heavenly beaches (40 minutes), the olive groves and lavender fields of Hvar (one hour), and the untouched charms of Vis (two hours) — each with its own distinct character, perfect for an island-hopping excursion.

Read more: The best Croatian islands to visit on an island-hopping trip

Make it happen

Ready to start planning your Croatia Split vacation? Make it happen by exploring our carefully crafted Croatia trip ideas, or go ahead and reach out to a local expert for tailor-made trip planning from scratch.