In the spotlight: Caroline Eden, author of ‘Samarkand’

One of the greatest pleasures of any travel experience is getting to know the local food scene. While some destinations are well-known for their cuisines (think India and Vietnam), others remain hidden gems. Caroline Eden, author of Samarkand, highlights a few of these in her work. Co-written with her colleague Eleanor Ford, Samarkand shines a spotlight on Central Asia and the Caucasus. Heavily influenced by the surrounding nations, the region’s flavors and cooking techniques are as varied as they are unique. From everyday staples to culinary surprises, Samarkand offers a real insight into a relatively undiscovered food scene. We caught up with Caroline in this Caroline Eden interview to chat about her ultimate recipe recommendations, the cuisines that have captured her heart, and her most memorable experiences on the road…

Can you tell us a bit about your latest book Samarkand?

Samarkand is a collection of travel and food essays, along with around 100 recipes (created by my co-author, Eleanor Ford), that highlight a side of Central Asia and the Caucasus we rarely hear about—the food! The historic city of Samarkand serves as a starting point to bring together the cuisines and food traditions of seven ethnic groups who have left their mark on the city over the centuries: the Tajiks, Russians, Turks, Jews, Koreans, Caucasians, and the Uzbeks themselves.

There are many mouthwatering dishes, desserts and drinks found within Samarkand’s pages, which do you most enjoy cooking at home?

Probably summer borscht with sour cream and chives; it’s so easy and refreshing.

Any advice for those wanting to experience the Caucasus and Central Asia?

Learn to read Russian, plan ahead for visas, and don’t believe the hype that this region is a hotbed of terrorism, as some American newspapers have recently (mis)reported.

Of the countries you have visited, which had the cuisine that most captured your heart?

I have a big soft spot for Tajikistan. Wonderful oyster mushrooms and apricots grow in the High Pamirs, and in the cities, many chefs show more than a dash of Persian flair in their cooking, harking back to their Persian heritage.

What are your favorite memories of your travel and research experiences? Any great stories to share?

They are countless, but to focus on food: I found Shakarob (a simple salad of flaky fatir flatbread, tomatoes, onions, and yogurt), or Tajik bread salad as the recipe in the book is called, to be a lifesaver after a long day traveling through the dusty Fann Mountains. I write about this long travel day and thirst-quenching salad in my essay Lunch on the Road to Samarkand in the book. I also love qutabs from Azerbaijan, herb-filled flatbreads eaten with sour cream. These are a great example of the fastest of fast foods, and healthy-ish too. The freshest ones I’ve eaten haven’t been in Baku’s fancy restaurants but have been cooked on a convex griddle on the side of the road, brushed quickly with fresh melted butter.

 Have any of the destinations you’ve visited and researched overturned your expectations?

I think travelers are often surprised that Uzbekistan, a place so rich in history, is modernizing so quickly in some areas. There are Spanish-built, high-speed trains, 17 million active SIM cards, and in the capital, Tashkent, the trams are being replaced by larger bus and metro networks.

Our ethos is all about bringing travelers as close as possible to local expertise. Have you ever been saved by a bit of local advice?

I’ve received a lot of advice over the years, but in this part of the world, the best was: always accept a dinner invitation.

What’s next for you? Where’s the next place you will be visiting and what will you be writing about?

I’m heading to Ukraine in two weeks to write about the Eurovision Song Contest and to return to Odessa, in the south – a city I’m currently researching.

Make it happen

Feeling inspired by our Caroline Eden interview? Explore Central Asia or the Caucasus for yourself by reaching out to one of our local experts or browse our Asia vacations for more travel ideas!