A guide to Robben Island

If you’re visiting South Africa, perhaps you’re interested in exploring its apartheid history? Until the end of apartheid just over 30 years ago in 1994, South Africa’s links to racial segregation were inescapable. Today, there are many pivotal sites that tell the story of apartheid and its symbolic figures as a marker of history, respect and reflection; and one of these sites is Robben Island. This is a place that echoes with history and suffering, but is today a symbol of hope and testament to the triumph of the human spirit over adversity – a place that has played a pivotal role in the story of South Africa, and has become one of Cape Town’s key sights. We’ve compiled this Robben Island Travel Guide so you can get up to speed on one of South Africa’s most historically prominent places.

A brief history of Robben Island

Robben Island is located off the coast of Cape Town, about 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) from the mainland. From the 17th century, when South Africa was colonized by the Dutch, Robben Island was used as a prison. The island continued to be used to incarcerate sinister criminals for many centuries, also being used as a leper colony as well as an asylum. Most famously, this diminutive, 600 hectare patch of low-lying land was used as a prison for political opponents to the apartheid regime – and counts Nelson Mandela among its most renowned inmates. He was locked up in this facility for 18 of the total 27 years that he was incarcerated, and it was inside the Robben Island Prison that the seeds of the liberation movement were sown. The whole island is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a place of contemplation and reflection for those who visit. 

What to see on Robben Island

Tours are organized by the Robben Island Museum, who usually ferry you to the island and then switch to a tour bus once you arrive. The entire island only covers around 5 sq km (2 sq miles), but there are several different areas and plenty to see and contemplate.

An island of contrasts

The whole of Robben Island is considered a museum, and though there are more than 100 permanent inhabitants, the buildings are left in a similar state of minimalist decrepitude to the time when it was a prison island.

Despite its dark purpose throughout history, the natural surroundings on Robben Island are quite beautiful. The land is flat and there isn’t much in the way of forests, but there are shrubs, grasses and abundant plant life. There’s the poignant view of Table Mountain and Table Bay in the distance, as well as sprawling views of Cape Town. There are also rocky beaches and some stretches of sand, where seals and birdlife congregate. In fact, an array of wildlife call Robben Island home. 

Wildlife on Robben Island

Fur seals are often seen out in the bay, as are whales, while on the island itself there are several springbok, deer, ostriches, tortoises, and many rabbits and cats. It is the thousands of charming African penguins which capture the most attention, however. At one point there were more than 20,000 penguins living on the shores of Robben Island, but today the number has fallen to around 3,000, possibly due to restricted food supplies. Birdlife is overall very prolific, with more than 100 species of bird recorded in such a small territory. Look out for night herons and crowned cormorants, both of which nest on the island.

A political ex-prisoner as your guide

One of the most significant elements of the tour is that your local guide is usually an ex-political prisoner who will have spent time behind bars on Robben Island, so the information you receive is particularly meaningful. Not only will you hear the facts about the various sections of the island and what apartheid entailed, but a personal, firsthand account of the conditions of imprisonment, from a person who lived through it. This really adds a powerfully human perspective to the tour and makes it an immersive and moving experience.

The leper cemetery

The tour route includes the cemetery for those who died here of leprosy throughout the 20th century. In the early 1900s, those who had been diagnosed with the contagious skin condition were sent to off-shore islands to isolate them from society, a cruel practice which thankfully no longer occurs here. The gravestones here are worn and random, some without names at all, as a stark reminder of the estimated 1,500 souls that died here in exile.

The labor quarries

Also present are two limestone quarries where political inmates of apartheid, and possibly prisoners from earlier centuries, were subjected to hard manual labor as punishment and to demoralize. This backbreaking work involved extracting limestone and other materials for hours each day, to be used for buildings and roads on the island. The prisoners were given hand tools for the task, which they eventually used to communicate with each other through tapping and signals.

The Robben Island Prison

Finally there’s the maximum security prison itself, the most significant site of Robben Island, brought to life by your guides who actually experienced life inside its walls. You’ll see for yourself how stark this prison is, with small, barely furnished cells and grim interiors. Wandering the prison, it’s hard to comprehend being trapped here for years as part of a corrupt government regime.

Robert Sobukwe’s ‘house’

As leader of the Pan Africanist Congress (PAC), Robert Sobukwe was a prominent anti-apartheid activist and one of the most vocal figures in its dismantling. The government feared his radical influence in Robben Island Prison, so his ‘house’ was a small cell with only a bucket as a toilet. Here he was kept apart from the other prisoners, forbidden to communicate, in solitary confinement for six years. You can only imagine the mental impacts Sobukwe suffered under such inhumane conditions.

Nelson Mandela’s cell

Of course, there’s the cell where Nelson Mandela lived and mentally battled for an incredible 18 years. Like Sobukwe, Mandela had a bucket for a toilet, a mattress and a small window as his only setting; but had his inmates close by to discuss revolution, their eventual release, and the political future of South Africa.

Important former inmates

Three of the former prisoners of Robben Island have since been elected President in South Africa. Nelson Mandela served from 1994 to 1999, and has gained international recognition for his role in the anti-apartheid revolution. Kgalema Motlanthe was imprisoned for his involvement with the ANC and spent 10 years on Robben Island between 1977 and 1987. He held office as an interim President for 8 months beginning in 2008. From 2009 until early 2018, Jacob Zuma, President of South Africa from 2009-2018 was another of the ex Robben Island prisoners, having spent 10 years there for his involvement with the ANC and for conspiring to overthrow the ruling apartheid government at the time.

How to get to Robben Island

The island tour includes ferry travel to and from Nelson Mandela Gateway which is located on the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. Depending on the weather, tours depart regularly throughout the morning, though if the crossing is too rough trips do occasionally get cancelled. It is a good idea to book in advance as it’s a popular tour, and make sure to arrive in good time to allow a few minutes to take in the installation in the waiting area, which illustrates the history of Robben Island.

The ferry takes between 30 and 45 minutes and, should you be lucky enough to experience good weather, the views across Table Bay and back to Table Mountain are fabulous. This is often a choppy stretch of water so those who get seasick might want to plan ahead. Once you arrive at Murray’s Bay Harbour it’s a short walk to the bus, which will be waiting to take you to discover the island.

Make it happen

A trip to Robben Island is a humbling place and gives a fascinating insight into the history of South Africa. Build Robben Island into your tailor made tour of Cape Town and beyond, created for you by our expert local specialists. Send them a few details of the kind of trip you are looking for and they will do the rest.