Get to know Antananarivo in Madagascar

When setting off to the forested island of Madagascar, you’re almost certain to land in Antananarivo, the country’s thriving capital. With its streets packed with sellers, roaring cars and market patrons, people often pass through Antananarivo in as short a time as possible. To be fair, this isn’t entirely unwarranted, as the famous lemurs and baobab trees in the wilderness of the island are certainly worth rushing to. With that said, this city has plenty of charm if you slow down and take the time to learn more about its past, which is not as widely known as that of other nearby African countries. Knowing the historical makeup of Madagascar unlocks a new appreciation of life in Antananarivo (or Tana, as it’s called by some locals). Also, you’re likely to spend at least a day here on any Madagascan trip. So why not unpack the important history of this city (and, to an extent, the history of greater Madagascar)? We’ve put together an essential Antananarivo travel guide to help you get started.

Remnants of a feudal and colonial history

In the grand scheme of things, Madagascar has a relatively short period of human occupancy compared to many parts of the world: many historians believe the island’s first settlers arrived circa 500 CE. These original inhabitants were the Vazima and Vezo tribes.

Antananarivo is far newer than that: it was more a town than a city in the early 17th century, inhabited then by a community of Vazimba. The Merina people, led by the king Andrianjaka, took over in the early 1600s. According to folk history (or perhaps legend, though it’s impossible to know for certain), Andrianjaka used 1,000 soldiers to seize his new kingdom, giving Antananarivo its name: the City of a Thousand.

The success of Andrianjaka and the line of sovereigns that succeeded him meant the city he founded stood out as one of the only capitals in southern Africa to be well developed before colonial rule. In fact, the full-scale French military invasion in 1896 ended a reign of three successive queens, the last of whom was Ranavalona III. (Before then, the French had certain territories on the island, and the British offered military assistance, but neither controlled Madagascar until the all-out French incursion.)

Despite (or perhaps because of) her much-opposed exile by the French, Ranavalona III became a well-loved figure in Algiers and (intermittently) in Paris and other cities of France. She was known and appreciated among high society in her new urbane environments for her resilience, love of crafts, fine clothes and popularity.

She died in 1917 without ever being allowed to return to her home in Madagascar. However, her body is housed at the UNESCO-recognized burial site Ambohimanga, one of a handful of the city’s fascinating landmarks from its feudal era.

The compelling history behind the Merina kingdom means the former royal complexes are must-sees when visiting Antananarivo.

The Rova of Antananarivo dominates the city skyline on the highest hill in the city, continually expanded and restyled according to the tastes of three centuries of monarchs. This unique palace complex suffered from serious fire damage in 1995 (not to mention the partial destruction it faced during the French invasion). But in recent years, the Rova has started to be protected and restored.

Nearby, there’s Andafiavaratra Palace, recognizable by the slate-gray tops of the four towers that form its corners. This was the home of 19th century Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony, who served the three final queens of Madagascar. Meanwhile, downhill from the palaces, Andohalo Square still stands as the former setting for public addresses by the nation’s regents.

Read more: Best things to do in Madagascar

The Mada way

Due to the combined influence of various settlers, Madagascar is an island built on cultural fusion. There were Austronesian explorers who boated over from Borneo, Bantu migrants from East Africa, a number of ethnic communities that settled over the centuries, and European colonists.

Any Antananarivo travel guide will tell you Malagasy culture is vibrant, distinct, and multifaceted. The nation’s 18 ethnic groups are well represented in the population of modern-day Antananarivo, and there are also small Chinese, Indian, Comoran, and French communities.

To dive into local life at the deep end, take a walk around one of the city’s open-air markets, such as the well-loved Marché Artisanal de la Digue, also known as Analakely Market. It’s a giant mass of stalls with local goods that spill out onto the streets. Everything from vanilla, spices, beans, wooden handicrafts and jewelry is available here. Be prepared to haggle, and bring a local guide if possible to translate, as English isn’t always widely spoken.

As you walk the aesthetically steep alleyways, admire the hodgepodge of red and white houses that covers Antananarivo’s sloped hills. These traditional Malagasy homes, often consisting of one story and a sloped thatched roof, underwent constant evolution during the colonial period, inspired by the European-styled homes of the aristocracy.

For some downtime with a dose of culture, there are a handful of lovely green spaces in the city. Jardin d’Andolaho Park is a small garden that features hiragasy (folk music performances) every Sunday throughout the winter. Also, Jardin d’Ambohijatovo, known for its distinctive palm trees, is popular among locals and hosts small cultural festivals as well as large government-sponsored holiday extravaganzas.

Standouts of Malgasy cuisine

If you want memorable food in Madagascar, Antananarivo is the place. The melting pot of Malagasy culture is well reflected in the city’s food, and there is a pleasing amount of variety. Cuisine runs the gamut from tasty local street food to impressive menus of (or at least near) Michelin-star quality.

Charmingly quirky La Varangue leads the way in gourmet cuisine, offering the likes of zebu steak, duck with cranberry and saffron risotto, all artfully prepared by Malagasy chef Rakotondravelo Hary Liva.

For a conversely low-key dining experience, try Chantaco. This cheerful lunch spot looks deceptively plain from the outside but consistently draws the locals with its Malagasy-Chinese dishes. For a cake or croissant akin to Parisian bakery fare, or for some truffle souvenirs, pick up a sweet treat at Patisserie Colbert.

Antananarivo travel guide: top tips for getting around

As with many cities, travelers must err on the side of caution when exploring Antananarivo. Pickpocketing is not uncommon and international visitors are frequent targets, especially in markets and airports. Be aware of your belongings and don’t have your valuables on show. Begging is also prolific, particularly from children. The best thing is to politely decline or ignore their advances to avoid encouraging this behavior.

Having a local guide accompany you will be infinitely helpful when visiting local haunts, both for breaking down language barriers and getting insider knowledge. The majority of Antananarivo’s highlights are situated outside of the city center, so hiring a driver could also save you a lot of hassle.

Read more: A beginner’s guide to Madagascar

Make it happen

To give Madagascar’s capital a whirl, include Antananarivo in a tailor-made tour of the country designed by our local experts. They can help you design an itinerary that covers all of the essentials while also touching on elements of local culture that you might otherwise miss. If our Antananarivo travel guide has inspired you, get in touch with our local partners today to begin planning your adventure through Antananarivo and anywhere else you want to go in Madagascar.