The Day of the Dead traditions in Guatemala

From early morning on November 1st, the cemeteries of Santiago Sacatepéquez and Sumpango in Guatemala are hives of activity. Families are busy cleaning and tidying the graves of their departed loved ones and setting up areas for the annual grave-side picnic as part of the Day of the Dead traditions.

Day of the Dead traditions

A testament to the sheer variety and vibrancy of Guatemalan culture, it’s an unforgettable experience. While it may sound a bit macabre, the atmosphere is buoyant yet respectful. Everybody takes advantage of this opportunity to remember those that have passed away in a positive, uplifting way.

Meanwhile, the young men of the community have been working hard to finish off the festival’s centerpiece: intricate, handmade kites. The fruit of forty days’ labor, the Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) marks their first flight.

El Día de los Muertos is celebrated throughout Latin America and indeed the Catholic world. The celebrations are as exciting and diverse as the various countries that host them, and one of the most spectacular is held annually in Guatemala. If you are in the country at that time it is a fantastic opportunity to witness ancient Mayan rituals blended with Catholic traditions. Festivities culminate in a colorful and unforgettable spectacle: the Festival de Barriletes Gigantes or Giant Kite Festival.

The Giant Kite Festival – Day of the Dead

Kites of all shapes and sizes are launched into the air as a signpost to guide the spirits of the dead back to their loved ones. The Día de los Muertos is an occasion when Mayan beliefs dictate that the worlds of the living and the dead merge. Therefore, it is an auspicious time to send messages to dearly departed family and friends, tied to the tails of the kites.

The most spectacular kites are those that are least likely to fly. Created with care over the preceding weeks, these giant kites are circular works of art. Intricately decorated with patterns, messages, religious designs (and sometimes political statements) they are a sight to behold. They are so large and cumbersome it is a wonder that they are able to stand upright, let alone fly. This aside, when they are all aligned with colors blazing, it is a memorable sight.

First, the design is sketched out on a huge circular cloth, which is then collaged with tissue paper to create the desired image. On the day of the festival the cloth is attached to a framework of bamboo and finally raised into position to the cheers and applause of the crowd. Kites flutter in the breeze and families share fiambre – a traditional dish of up to fifty ingredients – with the spirits of their loved ones in the cemetery. Around 4pm everybody packs up their colorful kites, and remaining picnic food, to head home and await the arrival of their dearly departed.

The atmosphere is brimming with vitality and excitement, which goes hand in hand with the spirituality and respect for the dead that these traditions encourage. The event offers a wonderful and unique experience for all the family.

Day of the Dead dishes

Festivals are always celebrated with feasting, and the Day of the Dead in Guatemala is no different. If you’re lucky enough to be at one of the country’s celebrations,  look out for these tasty dishes and give them a try. For a sweet treat at breakfast or to fuel you throughout the day, try Ayote en Dulce. This sweet and sticky morsel is made by steaming chunks of squash in raw cane sugar syrup spiced with cinnamon and allspice and tempered with citrus. 

The main dish of the day is the highly-anticipated Fiambre, made just once a year for the Day of the Dead celebrations and containing dozens of ingredients. It is essentially an elaborate chilled salad perfect for transporting to the cemetery for a picnic. Fiambre’s many ingredients include cold cuts of chicken, ham and sausage, cheese, boiled eggs, pickles, and a host of shredded salad and fresh vegetables. Everything is chopped and mixed with a herby sweet and sharp dressing. It’s a satisfying and delicious meal that everyone looks forward to. 

Other drinks and snacks traditionally enjoyed on the Day of the Dead in Guatemala include Chilate, a non-alcoholic drink made with toasted rice and cacao, and fried plantain in a spiced chocolate sauce. Corn tortillas stuffed with cheese, beans and avocado are another favorite festival snack.

The weather in Guatemala in November

The Day of the Dead celebrations fall right at the start of the dry season, so it’s an excellent time to visit Guatemala. Expect sunny days, low humidity and just the odd shower. It’s an ideal time for outdoor activities such as hiking or visiting ancient Mayan ruins. The countryside will be lush and green after the rainy season, but roads should be sufficiently dried out not to hinder travel and temperatures should be mild and manageable. 

With the timing being at the beginning of the dry season, visitor numbers aren’t too high. Tourist numbers will grow steadily into December and January and then tail off again through February and March before the start of the rainy season in April/May. This means that crowds will be fewer and costs will be a shade lower than at peak travelling times. All in all, November is an excellent month to travel to Guatemala and catch the colorful Dia de los Muertos festivities before continuing to explore the rest of the country. 

Other things to do in Guatemala in November?

As well as the Day of the Dead festival, attending the harvest festival at Todos Santos Cuchumatán is another exciting cultural experience. The day is dominated by a horse race, with riders dressed in colourful traditional costumes. It’s a lively day of marimba music, indigenous folk dance and traditions. 

After all the parties, it might be time to slow things down with a trip to dreamy Lake Atitlan. Ringed by verdant hills and cone-shaped volcanoes, this is one of Guatemala’s most spectacular landscapes. Visit in November for clear blue skies and comfortably cool temperatures, ideal for hiking along the region’s gentle nature trails and more challenging accents. 

November is also a great time to venture into the jungle and explore Guatemala’s ancient Mayan ruins at Tikal or Copan. From there it’s just a short hop to the Caribbean Coast for some beach time. 

From our Local Experts

Our local expert in Guatemala had this to say about the Día de los Muertos kite festival:

“The kite festival in Sumpango, Guatemala on Dia de los Muertos is a must-see if you are in the country on November 1st. This annual festival brings together local families to honor their past loved ones. Local folklore says this cultural tradition originated a few thousand years ago and is believed to be a way to communicate with the deceased. Families and friends spend months leading up to the day to build the ornate and beautiful kites that you get to see up close in person. As large as 20 meters across, the kites are decorated to display figures, landscapes and messages, resembling enormous murals.”

Make it happen

Guatemala is an amazing destination, home to Mayan ruins, spectacular markets, wonderful landscapes and a rich and intriguing culture. Find out what other delights our local experts suggest for you by popping a few details into our enquiry form. If you would like to find out more about what Guatemala has to offer, why not take a look at our destination page.