Follow in the footsteps of explorer Dervla Murphy

When she received a bike and an atlas for her tenth birthday, explorer Dervla Murphy enjoyed cycling around the Irish countryside while dreaming of the distant countries she had seen on the map. It was during one of these bike rides that a thought began to crystallize in Murphy’s young mind: ‘If I went on doing this for long enough, I could get to India.‘ This simple idea would become the first spark in what would grow into a lifetime of bold and boundary-pushing adventures, Dervla Murphy’s travels would go on to inspire generations of explorers.

Follow in the footsteps of explorer Dervla Murphy

Until her passing in 2022 at the age of 90, explorer Dervla Murphy led an adventurous life filled with extraordinary journeys. Having spent much of her childhood and early adulthood nursing her invalid mother, those long held ambitions to travel had to be put on the back burner. It wasn’t until 1963 that Murphy was able to set off on her bicycle from her home in County Waterford aiming for India. The journey became a brilliant book published in 1965 – Full Tilt: Ireland to India With a Bicycle.

There followed many more incredible trips, including mule-trekking through Ethiopia, visiting India with her five-year-old daughter Rachel, and further solo trips to destinations as diverse as Siberia, Romania, Cuba, and Laos. Dervla Murphy’s travels were characterized by her advocacy of travelling with the bare minimum, which encourages interaction with communities, the best way to a genuine cultural exchange. Read on to find out more about some of the destinations that Dervla Murphy has written about. Perhaps you will be inspired to follow in her footsteps.

India – From the Himalayas to the heart of the South

Murphy visited India at the end of her epic journey from Ireland, entering India via Pakistan, cycling through the Punjab and south towards Delhi. She spent considerable time in the mountainous northern state of Himachal Pradesh working as a volunteer in a refugee camp for fleeing Tibetans. Murphy also returned to India with her daughter several years later, when the child was five. They arrived in Mumbai and traveled together through Goa and what was then the state of Coorg, now known as Kodagu district, in southwest Karnataka state, a huge contrast to her previous Himalayan adventure. As part of Dervla Murphy’s travels, she wrote, “because children pay little attention to racial or cultural differences, junior companions rapidly demolish barriers of shyness or apprehension,” and that is still a universal truth today.

When to visit

India is a large country, so the best time to visit depends on where you’re going. If you’re heading north, October to March offers cooler, more comfortable temperatures for exploring the outdoors. For the south, November to February is ideal. Monsoon season is from June to September, and during this time, the weather can be unpredictable. However, the rain does offer lush landscapes and fewer crowds.

Travel tips

Dervla Murphy’s exploration of India was extensive. She lived among locals and volunteered with local communities. While you might not want to cycle across the country, you can still embrace her adventurous spirit by doing things like taking local transport and exploring beyond the tourist hotspots. In Himachal Pradesh, you can visit McLeod Ganj, the home of the Tibetan government-in-exile. In Karnataka, explore the coffee plantations of Coorg and the temples of Hampi.

Laos – Cycling into a war-torn land

Published in 1999, Murphy’s account of her cycling tour of Laos tells the tale of her quest to see the real soul of the country. Her adventure took her to lots of remote and little-known corners of this beautiful Southeast Asian country and recounts her courageous, intriguing, and sometimes foolhardy efforts to get to know the nation. The book is more than just a travelogue, however, and shines a light on the secret war that embroiled Laos while the world was focused on Vietnam. As part of Dervla Murphy’s travels, she demonstrates an incredible ability to achieve a deep understanding of a nation and its culture by getting right into the heart of local life at a community level, and it’s this ability that makes her book One Foot in Laos so appealing to read.

When to visit

November to March is the best time to visit Laos, with cooler temperatures and dry conditions perfect for exploring its natural wonders. The wet season is from May to October and typically makes roads muddy. However, it’s a good time of year to marvel at the country’s plunging waterfalls and lush greenery.

Travel tips

Dervla Murphy enjoyed traveling to remote areas in Laos, often venturing off the beaten path. If you want a similar experience, head to Phongsali in the far north or the Bolaven Plateau in the south. For a glimpse of the country’s rich history, you can venture to the UNESCO-listed Plain of Jars, which is a mysterious archaeological site from the Iron Ages. Travel by bicycle in Laos is still possible, but renting a motorbike is a more popular option for travelers who want to cover more ground.

Ethiopia – Riding solo through the highlands against all odds

Against official advice, Murphy traveled more than 1,000 miles across the highlands of Ethiopia on a mule named Jock, a hazardous and difficult journey. She was robbed three times but continued unperturbed and managed to cover a huge stretch of the under-explored nation, from Asmara to Addis Ababa. When you consider that she was a solo female traveler in 1960s Ethiopia, it was a truly remarkable feat. The Highlands of Ethiopia come as a surprise to many even today, as verdant, dramatic scenery is not necessarily what springs to mind when you think of this African destination. But the Highlands are one of Ethiopia’s trump cards, and can be ideal if you are interested in rare wildlife or trekking.

When to visit

The best time to visit Ethiopia is from October to February, as the weather is typically dry and pleasant, with plenty of sunny days for sightseeing. The rainy season is from June to September, transforming the landscapes into lush greenery, but some areas can experience heavy rainfall. Following the rainy season is often an ideal time to visit for wildlife watching, particularly in the Highlands.

Travel tips

Dervla Murphy spent much of her time in the Ethiopian Highlands. This region is considered a hotspot for hikers with its scenic trails and incredible natural scenery. In the Simien Mountains, you can enjoy stunning views and the chance to see rare wildlife like the Ethiopian wolf. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow Murphy’s lead and travel on muleback, though most travelers opt for a guided trekking tour. In Addis Ababa, you can visit the Ethnological Museum for a glimpse into Ethiopia’s vibrant culture.

Iran – A test of grit through rugged landscapes

A woman traveling unaccompanied in the 60s was enough to raise a few eyebrows, and Murphy had a challenging time as she cycled through Iran – at one point she was bombarded by stones thrown by a group of youths while she was crossing the Great Salt Desert. Despite this, she persevered. Thankfully, times have changed, and that’s not something you can expect to encounter on your bespoke Iran trip. Instead, enjoy a snowy adventure in the Alborz mountains, a visit to the heavenly palaces of Isfahan, or a tour of historic Yazd. Iran has a wealth of art and architecture which adds a layer of beauty and cultural intrigue to this diverse nation. If you want to explore some areas by bike, as Murphy did, you just need to ask.

When to visit

March to May is spring in Iran, while fall is between September and November. These are considered the best times to visit, as you’ll encounter comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds. Beware that summers can be scorching hot, especially in and around the desert regions.

Travel tips

While Dervla Murphy encountered various challenges cycling through Iran, travelers today will find a much more welcoming experience. Iranian culture is built on warm hospitality, where welcoming guests is a way of life. There is a treasure trove of things to see and do in Iran, with countless landmarks and historic sites you can tick off your list. Add the city of Shiraz to your itinerary to see its stunning grounds that include blooming gardens and beautiful mosques. If you want to cycle a portion of Dervla Murphy’s route, the Alamut Valley is known for its photogenic scenery and historic castles.

Make it happen

Many of TravelLocal’s expert operators can help arrange meaningful experiences with local families and communities, allowing you to immerse yourself fully and gain a deeper understanding of the culture and destination you choose. Inspired by Dervla Murphy’s travels, these journeys encourage authentic connections that go beyond typical sightseeing. Take a look at some of these inspiring destinations and start planning your own unforgettable adventure.